Just an hour northeast of Yangon, the city of Bago (once called Pegu) is easy to overlook. At first glance, it’s a busy provincial town. But spend a day here and you quickly realize Bago is one of Myanmar’s most fascinating places — a city that has seen golden ages of empire, devastating wars, and, more recently, tragedy. Last month our Community Liason Office took a few folks from the embassy on a tour of this lovely city and shared with us some of the beautiful culture and history.
The Shwethalyaung Reclining Buddha may be Bago’s most iconic site. At 180 feet long, half the length of a football field, it’s one of the largest in the world. Built in 994 AD, it was rediscovered in 1881 when British engineers laid down railway tracks. Prominent Americans have left their footprints here, Vice President Richard Nixon visited in 1953, and again in the 1980’s.
Mahazedi Pagoda, a brilliant white stupa first built in 1560 by King Bayinnaung. From its terrace, the views stretch across the plains — the same vistas Allied pilots once saw during World War II missions here.
Perhaps most significant to Bago’s past, the reconstructed Kanbawzathadi Palace brings to life the grandeur of King Bayinnaung’s 16th-century empire, once the largest in Southeast Asia. Its great audience hall and museum offer a glimpse into a time when Bago was the center of regional power, sometimes called “Southeast Asia’s Versailles.” Myanmar has had numerous capitals over it’s history, but Bago served one of the nation’s longest tenures as the seat of power.
Sadly, Bago is more than monuments. Its story also carries reminders of violence and loss. During World War II, the city was occupied by Japanese forces and targeted by Allied bombing. Earthquakes have caused the collapse of the city more than once. More recently, in April 2021, Bago became the site of one of the deadliest crackdowns following Myanmar’s coup, when hundreds of civilians were killed in a single day of protest.
I realize most people reading this will likely never step foot in Myanmar, but if you do, Bago is definitely worth a day trip from Yangon. Visiting Bago means stepping into Myanmar’s layers — its spiritual devotion, its royal ambition, its scars of war and conflict. It’s humbling, moving, and most certainly unforgettable. For travelers looking to understand Myanmar beyond its postcard images, Bago offers one of the clearest windows into the country’s complex soul (while still offering postcard worthy sites to explore).
